The Beaches in Greece are from heaven

Just about enough time for a short swim before our ride today

So I think we're at day 15. Tamra and I wake up each morning and say... do you believe we're in Greece and we have to go swim before breakfast! What would our friends say if we didn't... so off we go.. Helen too... we swim and swim and swim.. do I have to get out? The googles we brought are awesome.. I can see to the bottom and I'm way over my head. Today we're off to a little town called Stoupa. Yorgos and his family say this is the most awesome beach... how could it be!!!

For all you bikers out there this day is biker heaven. Clear blue skies, not a touch of smog...all the smokers are in the internet cafe's..cough, cough. We'll ride 42 K today and two.. challenging climbs.. for 446 meters total.. lots of switchbacks, watch for the traffic, single file, be carefull and stop when you need too... boy we're climbers now. I'm up ahead again and what's this another arrow heading off for a view I'll bet... how can he possibly get the car on this road I think.. probably about .5 mi I go.. rugged but beautiful. I stop and enjoy the view for quite awhile.. pictures to come. I head back to the road.. no sign of our group.. but only one road Yorgos says.. so off I go.. hmmm no arrows, but what's this a dutch couple who speak English, but are LOADED down with the works! The lady (about my age) says they've biked from the Netherlands for the last 5 weeks! The alps where a challange.. I guess!!! but they've only got a few weeks left and then a plane ride home. I follow them for quite awhile and find out Stoupa is not far.. I stop in a nice Taverna and have a diet coke and chat with the owner a bit. I'll bet they're wondering where I am.

Finally I see the van and Yorgos! Yup, he was getting a bit concerned. We are in an even more beautiful place.. unbelievable view.. called The Lighthouse. I hurry to get into my bikinis.. yes you heard right.. I have a bikinis now and serious a tan problem. We're armed with sunblock though. Off to the beach we go... sandy, slowly deeper water, people everywhere. And... in all state of dress or I should say undress!! I'll bet we're hearing 10 different languages here.. all the babies and toddlers are in their birthday suits.. playing in the sand with mom or dad..

several women.. topless, without a care in the world.. all sizes. Tans are all pretty good, except us. We're not in a hurry though... we have 2 weeks to catch up.

Stoupa Street and tower house

We have a bit of a walking tour before dinner. The town just a few K before Stoupa is Kardamyli. Yorgos family comes from the area. This is the Mani peninsula and very rugged and untamed. The town has an area that is preserved and very isolated and is considered a good example of old Greece. This area is famous for it's tower houses and fortified family dwellings. They date from the time of the revolution in 1821 or earlier. This area is also where the Greek writer Kikos Kazantzakis met Alexis Zorbos and part of the story Zorba the Greek took place around here. A great story about Greece and a great film.

Lela in her kitchen

Dinner tonight is really special we eat at Lela's... the restaurant is famous all over Greece for the setting.. on the rocky ledge overlooking the ocean.. and the food. Traditional Greek food, with Lela supervising everything, still. She stopped by to talk to Yorgos and Pete... she was the most lovely 90 yr old I've ever seen. She was all in black, as the older women dress here, with a gold cross on her neck and a black scarf on her hair. She had wonderfull soft looking skin, that was aged with lovely wrinkles, from obvious smiling for all her life. She kindly allowed a photo which I will post as soon as I can. This meal was still even more different dishes... fried cheese again, rice and spinach with mint I think, baked lamb and potatoes, fava beans as a dip, yogurt eggplant and garlic dip, fried meatballs again with fried potatoes, bread of course, and more wine. The moonlight is incredible, but we are very tired.. the late nights and heavy meals are a challenge to us Americans. But we'll suffer if we have too.