Santorini

Seaside Taverna

Cove for swimming off the Schooner to Oia

Sunset at Oia

Santorini views

Santorini

Helen insited we take one last week and visit Santorini. The Greek Islands offer another view of this landscape that we needed to see. The minute we landed in Santorini it had a different feel. It was warmer, much more barren, and MORE people and the ugly side of Greece-the garbage along the roads. There is no government program that controls or seems to pick up the litter and it is everywhere here. Helen says 5 years ago the tourists where minimal but now the entire island seems teaming with people vacationing. We see lots of young people touring and many who seem to be honey-mooners.

This island is a favorite for the cruise ships as well. Thousands of people seem to be making their way up the steep cliffs to the white washed towns on the top. The streets are still the terraced colorful cottages we've seen but they're almost all small shops full of beautiful jewelry and trendy resort wear. Tavernas and up scale restaurants all with a terrace and a view, and two times the price for lunch.

Yesterday we took a schooner that toured three different ports. Our trip took us to the active volcano in the region. This region was originally a larger island that was devastated by the largest eruption in recorded history. The date is in the mid 2nd. century BC and has been speculated to have been the basis for the myth of Atlantis. The island where the volcano is truely different than anything we've seen so far. It has the rugged geography but it is of barren volcanic rock. We had to hike up about 3 miles to the top and where we could see the smoking caldera. The guide was great and she could tell her story is 4 languages. After our hike we sailed to another island in the ring. We where invited to dive off the ship and swim as we wanted. This had me feeling like I'd escaped from a pirate ship and discovered a secret cove and rocks for swimming. Wonderful way to spend and afternoon. Our last stop was to the town of Oia on the tip of Santorini cliffs. This is a famous spot for photographers and visiters. We watched the sun set and it was glorious. Tamra promised me she got some wonderful shots.

We have one more day in Athens and then we have another odyssey back home. We've had a wonderful month. Greece will always be fondly remembered and our bike trip with Yorgos was definatly memorable. Our sisterhood of the traveling bicycles is over. We'll be home and back to our normal busy lives again. We're all looking forward to hugs and showing off pictures and our Greek cooking skills. Ya Sas...

Not a single flat in our 850K!!

Yorgos's Family at our family dinner

No McDonald's in Greece, I wonder why?

Friday Oct. 2

We finished our tour today. We managed one last swim at Kalavrita, so we swam and swam. I think Helen said her and Tamara did about a mile. The place Yorgos had us stay in last night was really the very top of the line. We overlooked a beautiful bay and the rooms where outstanding. Very modern and high end. Our ride to the bay was about like our others over quiet country roads, with lots of ups and downs.

The bikes where packed up, our equipment on the bikes removed and we gave out bikes a last pat as Yorgos packed them in the van. We all felt a sence of completion and when we finally tallied our milage we where amazed that we did 850 K around about. We managed to fit the countryside of the Peloponnese, the culture, the food, the people and 850K of biking in three short weeks. What an experience it has been.

We had a last dinner together and this gave us time to let our friends know how much we appreciated all their work and professional excellence in putting together a tour none of us will ever forget. Yorgos wanted to know what we liked and what problems or changes we would suggest. We could go on and on about all the things we liked.. . the detailed day sheet and markings that never led us wrong, the fact that Panayotis was a great sweep and helped keep us together on the long miles, the breakfasts, the picnics, the wonderful dinners Yorgos found for us and of course HIS COOKING!!! and we'll never forget the wonderful family dinner we where allowed to share in at his mothers. The bikes all ran well after numerous tweeks by Yorgos, the places where all wonderfully different and we just couldn't come up with much to critisize. The hills seemed endless but we are pretty tough now and the roads at times where pretty narrow and crazy, but we really wouldn't change a thing. Was 21 days too long... not at all, we never tired of the discoveries we had each day. We learned that there is so much to this wonderful country. We had a nice mix of tough days and easy days, swimming, shopping and beaches. The tour was very diverse and always educational and fun.

We've all learned something on this tour... and hope to change our lives a bit. We've had a glimpse of a slower way to live. The beauty of this land encourages people to take a bit of time to savour their surroundings, enjoy the wonderful climate, the exceptional bounty of foods grown and cooked here, and take time to enjoy life a bit more. We found the fact that there are no McDonalds in Greece to be curious at first, but now we know why. Why would you want to go into a restaurant that offers exactly the same food every day, quickly yes, but without care or taste that is in abundance in Greece. And the most obvious thing would be, by the time you chew down the burger and coke... you're friends at the next taverna haven't even begun to start on their evening Meze and friendly talk.

We will always remember this place fondly, we'll try and pour olive oil in all our cooking now and I plan to make some mousaka. We'll be home soon. I will try and make one more post for Santorini. So stay tuned.

Monemvasia is amazing

Monemvasia, Greece

Today we have to say good-by to Gytheio. This spot has been special. The view of the water is amazing and it is such a sleepy little waterfront town now without all the tourists. The staff at the hotel we're staying in have been especially friendly. So, if you happen to be in Gytheio, be sure and check out the Gytheion Hotel.. absolutely tops! And, they are right above a SUPER ice cream/internet cafe shop. Tamara and I had a run this morning and we swam too... so little time, so many fun things to do.

Our ride this morning will be one of our longest. We will be crossing the entire peninsula and going to the village of Arhaggelos. We have about 60 K, but Yorgos says it will be relatively flat.. yeah, right. We start off and travel through miles and miles of orchards again. This time oranges and of course figs, olives, tomatoes etc. The road is more of the same... up to beautiful views, down to little villages etc, etc.

The real highlight of this day was our evening in Monemvasia. this amazing place is a small mountain of rock that was seperated from the mainland by and earthquake in 375 AD. It was founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century and shortly after it became an important port. It has a causeway that links it to the mainland. It has many ruins of the original 800 houses and four of the original 40 churches. High above, castle walls protect the upper town on the summit. There is a fortified zigzag path from the upper town leading to the summit overlooking the town. We could have wandered through these ruins for hours. They have many shops and restaraunts to explore too, but the ancient buildings where amazing, especially at sunset. This was truely one of the highlights of our trip, and I would encourage anyone to make this a must see in Greece. I'll try and put a link up in a few days.

Fueled by Figs

The hill climbs are worth it, when you see sights like this

We walk to our grotto lunch spot

A Church on the road to our beach grotto

Tamra enjoying Greek coffee before our morning ride


I've been getting a few runs in

Our rides begin with a few quiet minutes, sipping coffee and just enjoying the beauty or the quiet. Yorgos has done a wonderful job finding wondrful accomadations. We mostly have two rooms and a balcony and usually a very small bathroom and often the rooms have a small kitchenette. We've enjoyed Greek coffee which is milder then expresso but still strong. It is heated with water and sugar in a small pot called a just until boiling and served in a small cup. The coffee is very popular and served everywhere at all times of day or night.

For breakfast we usually have yogurt and honey with fruit, a boiled egg, toast and nuts.

We get ourselves ready for our daily ride and discuss our ride with Yorgos and his brother Panoyotis, who has been riding with us most of the way. Pano, is a cyclist but he hasn't gone on many of his brothers rides and he's helping and keeping us all in line.

Tuesday 9/29

Today we'll have another challenging ride as we head for to the inner Mani, one of Europes wildest and most isolated regions. This area is mostly barren mountains with small olive trees and prickly pear cacti. It use to be denley populated area nd almost every hillside was cultivated. We can seen thousands of acres of stone fences and the hillsides are dotted with stone tower houses. The people choose these houses because they where easy to defend and very sturdy, as we can see because they are still around. Warfare seems to have been a constant for the Greek people. The area is doted with midevil churches and tiny chapels.

We rode up hills and down, not a car or a goat in sight. Until we see signs to the beach that Yorgos promises us. This beach is tucked away in an isolated cove, no sand but small round pebbles surround the waters edge. The cove is tucked into a hillside and we see a deep grotto that is shady and would make a perfect spot for our lunch. We have saved figs from the trees on our ride and we have tomatoes, olives and bread, we are set for a wonderful lunch. But first a swim... Helen swims with abandon out as far as she dares, Tamra and I both love to swim but the gentle cove also has more of the feel of an ocean too... so we stay closer to shore and enjoy the veiw of the rocks and fishes with our goggles. No need for snorkling equipment here if you bring your trusty swim goggles from home. We sun and snooze for a bit after lunch.

We do have the issue of the ride to our next destination... and of course it involves more hills. I have decided to change my ultimate challenge hill... no longer is MacIntosh Grade the toughest.. now it is Greek hills.

We visit the Diros Caves

One of our beaches today

Diros caves

Gytheio

The wind continues today and we all could use a rest day, so today we decided to check out the Diros caves in the area. They where discovered in 1955 by a dog that crawled through a hole into the caves and returned several days later coated in red clay. His owner followed him the following day and found a vast network of caves, of which some 5 miles have now been explored. The Pirgos Dirou Caves are one of the oldest inhabited spots in Greece. and pottery, bone tools, and even prehistoric garbage have been found here. We rode in a boat through the caves. It reminded me of a science fiction movie or Lord of the Rings worlds. Amazing.

The rest of the day we had time to explore the town of Gytheio. Tomorrow we ride to the southern most tip of Europe and Greece. This is called the Inner Mani .

We rest and enjoy a dinner on the waterfront

Chasing Italians!

Mani Coast
So, it seems today is Saturday, day 16. Of course we had to start the day with another swim.. everyone would be so disappointed if we didn't. Lovely, but, we can see the clouds turning gray and threatening. After our breakfast Yorgos, who's riding with us today tells us today will be our most challenging climb. We're only going 35 k but it's straight up and straight down. We'll climb another 477 meters but the nice little challenge we have to day is.. horrendous swirling wind and a possiblity of rain. So we'll play it by ear.

Who's this up ahead? A group of cyclists on mountain bikes and full paniers. We find out there are 10 of them, ladies and gents, very friendly, bon journo, bon jorno! (whatever) and we seem to keep catching them all morning. There going about 100K a day, and are touring as a group for 10 days. The wind is tough for all of us but they will really have a time of it with 70K more then us. Yorgos says the wind should be coming and going as we go up the switchbacks and the road is quite good and not much traffic. So we start and it is gruelling with the wind, but it does come and go some. The rain starts as expected and we decide to wait it out in a SMOKE FREE!!! Taverna.. it is pouring too.. but stops in about a half hour and we only have 10K to go.

The rain stops and the wind dyes some. We have the last of this "monster" climb, Yorgos states ahead, but we continue.. Tamra chases and finds the Italians at our destination village.. Thank God!!! Today we stop at Areapoli.

The Beaches in Greece are from heaven

Just about enough time for a short swim before our ride today

So I think we're at day 15. Tamra and I wake up each morning and say... do you believe we're in Greece and we have to go swim before breakfast! What would our friends say if we didn't... so off we go.. Helen too... we swim and swim and swim.. do I have to get out? The googles we brought are awesome.. I can see to the bottom and I'm way over my head. Today we're off to a little town called Stoupa. Yorgos and his family say this is the most awesome beach... how could it be!!!

For all you bikers out there this day is biker heaven. Clear blue skies, not a touch of smog...all the smokers are in the internet cafe's..cough, cough. We'll ride 42 K today and two.. challenging climbs.. for 446 meters total.. lots of switchbacks, watch for the traffic, single file, be carefull and stop when you need too... boy we're climbers now. I'm up ahead again and what's this another arrow heading off for a view I'll bet... how can he possibly get the car on this road I think.. probably about .5 mi I go.. rugged but beautiful. I stop and enjoy the view for quite awhile.. pictures to come. I head back to the road.. no sign of our group.. but only one road Yorgos says.. so off I go.. hmmm no arrows, but what's this a dutch couple who speak English, but are LOADED down with the works! The lady (about my age) says they've biked from the Netherlands for the last 5 weeks! The alps where a challange.. I guess!!! but they've only got a few weeks left and then a plane ride home. I follow them for quite awhile and find out Stoupa is not far.. I stop in a nice Taverna and have a diet coke and chat with the owner a bit. I'll bet they're wondering where I am.

Finally I see the van and Yorgos! Yup, he was getting a bit concerned. We are in an even more beautiful place.. unbelievable view.. called The Lighthouse. I hurry to get into my bikinis.. yes you heard right.. I have a bikinis now and serious a tan problem. We're armed with sunblock though. Off to the beach we go... sandy, slowly deeper water, people everywhere. And... in all state of dress or I should say undress!! I'll bet we're hearing 10 different languages here.. all the babies and toddlers are in their birthday suits.. playing in the sand with mom or dad..

several women.. topless, without a care in the world.. all sizes. Tans are all pretty good, except us. We're not in a hurry though... we have 2 weeks to catch up.

Stoupa Street and tower house

We have a bit of a walking tour before dinner. The town just a few K before Stoupa is Kardamyli. Yorgos family comes from the area. This is the Mani peninsula and very rugged and untamed. The town has an area that is preserved and very isolated and is considered a good example of old Greece. This area is famous for it's tower houses and fortified family dwellings. They date from the time of the revolution in 1821 or earlier. This area is also where the Greek writer Kikos Kazantzakis met Alexis Zorbos and part of the story Zorba the Greek took place around here. A great story about Greece and a great film.

Lela in her kitchen

Dinner tonight is really special we eat at Lela's... the restaurant is famous all over Greece for the setting.. on the rocky ledge overlooking the ocean.. and the food. Traditional Greek food, with Lela supervising everything, still. She stopped by to talk to Yorgos and Pete... she was the most lovely 90 yr old I've ever seen. She was all in black, as the older women dress here, with a gold cross on her neck and a black scarf on her hair. She had wonderfull soft looking skin, that was aged with lovely wrinkles, from obvious smiling for all her life. She kindly allowed a photo which I will post as soon as I can. This meal was still even more different dishes... fried cheese again, rice and spinach with mint I think, baked lamb and potatoes, fava beans as a dip, yogurt eggplant and garlic dip, fried meatballs again with fried potatoes, bread of course, and more wine. The moonlight is incredible, but we are very tired.. the late nights and heavy meals are a challenge to us Americans. But we'll suffer if we have too.

Rest day at Kalamarta: Some pictures are up on the Blogs!!!

Kalamata

Today we rode to Kalamata, Yorgos's home town. We got to experience the modern side of Greece. It's busy, narrow roads, lots of construction!!! We have a beautiful hotel overlooking the sea. We all went for a swim and where glad to have a nap. After our nap Yorgos picked us up and we had a wonderful dinner at their home.

The people here are so gracious and welcoming. Dinner was prepared on the back yard stone stove. They have a gas burner that is placed in a opening in the stone. They have a stone on the gas burner to fry with very little oil. This is a traditional cooking place for a family in Greece. It would be very warm to do all the cooking inside. We are introduced to all the family as they prepare the feast. Vegetables roasted on the grill, fried fish, greens, potato salad (a wonderful combination of potatoes, peppers, onion, olive oil, vinegar and herbs, wine (homemade of course), bread, OLIVES from their orchard.. and a wonderful desert that I can't remember the name of.. but it was made with semolina flour. We got a chance to call our families and to relax under the trees and stars.



I was able to put up some photos on my other blogs from the trip so be sure and take a look!!! I still can't attach my camera so nothing current.

A Venetian Fortress on the sea

Today is Tues, I think. We've lost all track of time and place. We're meeting people from all over Europe. I guess Greece has been a vacation spot for centuries. We've met people from Austria, Switzerland, England, Albania, Australia, France.

We started today from Piros Greece. A beautiful city in a natural cove. Yorgos says it is the Ionian Sea. It is a little harbor with several boats and fishing. It looks like a storm is coming in over the mountains. This is usually a perfect time of year for Greece. The tourists are minimal and the weather is in the high 70's. The winter is usually a few months off and usually they have rain like we've had for the last few days. Hard rain, pouring rain. I'm sure it has washed out many of the roads we've traveled on in the mountains.

We did about 50 K today. We have some really steep climbs today, but we're in no hurry. There are LOTS of hills in Greece!! Just like Steve Largent warned me. But the views make up for the work. We walked to town for dinner tonight. We ate by the water in one of the many restaurants. We where able to order from the menu and found several dishes we knew, so we had our own meze. We took pictures of the town as the sun went down. Tamra and I stroll back to our hotel and shop for lunch for tomorrow and for post cards. The town keeps going well into the late evening. The towns have such contrasts. In the square the people gather for coffee and traditional snacks, small children play in the open square well into the evening, in the bathrooms you must put tissue in a basket, not down the toilet because of the small old pipes, lots of solar panels on the roofs, many small "smart" cars buzzing by on roads that are about 6 feet wide and 20% grade, it seems, old farmers with their produce hanging off the back of their scooters. Never a helmet is seen.

The next morning we off again through olive groves and acres of farms of all kinds of food, Tomatoes, eggplants, and Pomegranate trees. Tamra is scavanging again for our breakfast. She says pomegranates are one of the new super foods we should all try and eat, along with almonds, Kiwi's and more I'm sure she'd fill us in on. They're full of antioxidents and is the new natural prozac! Ok with me.. I'm sure it will be pretty tasty with yogurt and honey in the am.

We heading to the city of Vounaria which is on the coast again. We stopped at the fortress of Methoni. This is an incredible structure. It was built in the 15 century by the venetians. This point of Greece is obviously another stategic point. The fortress is just like a mideval castle with vantage points, moats, a turkish bath! It is on a high rocky ledge and you can just imagine the battles that happened here. I met a very nice couple from UK who tell me they use to just through their prisoners off the ledge to the sea and their death. I probably took 50 pictures here and Tamra took more. The water is so clear you can see to the bottom. (we're still unable to up load any pictures.. so what you see is all from other web sites.)

The Venetian Fortress at Methoni

We continue along the coast line now. More up and down. We pass through small villages and everything seems to be under construction, especially on this coast. We see farmers with their produce all along the roads. We stop at a secluded beach for a swim and lunch. I meet more travelers.. Austria, Switzerland, all of them mention Obama, thumbs up whenever I tell them we're Americans. Everyone should experience swimming in the Mediterrarean at least once in their life. The water is as clear as can be, warm and gentle lapping waves. We swim and swim. We brought our goggles so we can easily see the bottom and the few fish below. I'd love to spend all day here but it seems we're packing up again... off to our next stop.

We ride through the mountains of Greece

WE're off to \lampia today up over the mountains to Olympia. The road is through a rather remote area with small farms and villages. The mountains are very rugged and rocky. There are small pines and grasses, and herbs, you can smell them. The contrast of the countryside here is so dramatic. Just the other day we where by the warm beautiful ocean and now we have rugges mountains and sheep and goat herds. It is very quiet and very little traffic but we can hear the clanking of the bells on the sheep and goats.

We are climbing today. The grade reminds me of Buford but Greece offers a nice touch to these mountain climbs, every few kilometers they have a fountain for fresh running water. The goats use it as well as passersby. Today we stopped at one of the fountains just accross from a woman tending her garden. It was such a beautiful garden bull of ripe tomatoes, cabbages, eggplant and grapes. I greeted her and complemented her on the tomatoes. We chatted for a bit, which of course has a lot of sign language but we where able to get information about where we where going.. she was so impressed. She insited we all take a handful of tomatoes..(domatess in Greek) now we had part of our lunch. What a lovely county.

We stopped at a small remote village Arieso for lunch. Yorgos meets us. This small village has the most beautiful stone building everywhere. The square is all done in stone, as is the church, the school and tavernas. We are greeted by a lovely lady who owns the restaurant.. She says we are the first Americans to visit their village. She is from Romania, I believe, and she speaks English well. She chats with Yorgos and us for quite awhile. We sit and rest and enjoy this quiet lovely place. She tells us that most of the people have left the town and Yorgos supposes there may only be about 30 living there now. (still having trouble uploading pictures from my card, but I have most on CD)
We continue on our journey to our destination Lampia. I happen upon a small building that looks like a medical clinic. I'm a bit ahead of our group and as Yorgos says it's all about meeting the people. The Dr. who is working at this 2 room clinic is Ioanna Koniari. She works for the ministry of Greece and is only 8 mo. out of school. She was working in Stockholm but the ministry called her back to staff this very small remote clinic. She said she doesn't deliver babies here, just sees villagers with problems and goes to emergencys. She is planning on specializing in cardiology. we talk a bit about newborn cardiologic problems of course. She is very interested. She says they have many problems with newborns in Greece, they must be transported out and they have only 3 sites in Greece for NICU's. She would talk on and on and we exchange e mails and she will look for my blog.

We are staying tonight at a beautiful old in in Lampia. This is another small village in the mountains that is one of 6-7 small communities in a mountain side. We have the entire 2 nd floor to ourselves. It even has a kitchen for our use.
We are in for a very special treat tonight. Yorgos is cooking us dinner. If you think he is passionate about the Greek countryside he is even more passionate about Greek food. So tonight he is making us one of his family specialities

Kokoras Meheelopites or Chicke with Pasta.
He went to the local butcher and bought a rooster. This is the traditional meat for this dish. The rooster is Very Fresh.. includes his legs! Tamara insits this is for her.. Yorgos says this is important to eat the legs as it honors the rooster. Well there you go. So here is the recipe:
Fry the meat in olive oil... quite a bit.. maybe 1 cup or so, until the meat is browned well.
The meat goes in a large pot, with about 1 sliced red onion, 1 can of chopped tomatoes, about 1 cup of canned sweet peppers, red wine.. a few glups.. or to be technical about 1 cup I'd say..salt, pepper, the oil from the fry pan, some oregano, cloves and cinnamon. This mixture is them low boiled for about an hour or until it's tender. The meat is removed, and the pasta is added. Yorgos uses a very small stamp shaped pasta and this cooks for about 10 min. The aroma is heavenly. He prepares the wonderful Greek salad with feta and his olives, a loaf of fresh country bread and of course.. more wine! It's now about 8-9 pm and we enjoy probably one of the best meals I've ever tasted. We sit and chat and eat slowly.. for another 2 hrs or so, it's too good to go fast. Yorgos suggests this site for Greek cooking:
www.kalofagas.org


We chat on the long climbs and we stop e
Yorgos thinks of everything for us.. we have great markings to follow and he points out hazards as well as steep downhills. He even stopped and petted a rambunctios doggy as we rode by so he wouldn't chase us.

Siesta time in Greece

These little goats where getting some water at a roadside spring

Kalavrita, Greece

We arrived at Kalavrita about 4 pm yesterday. Our hotel looks like an alpine chalet. The little town is very high in the mountains and is the local ski hill. The streets are very narrow and it looks like a mix of Swiss country and renissance Greece. We where going to try and get a pastry or something when we arrived but everything is closed right now. Yorgos says this is the siesta time and nothing will open again until about 6-7 pm. I took my drawing pad out on our balcany and spent the afternoon drawing and just listening to the quiet. We Americans have a lot we could learn about life from the Greeks. Everything is quiet, no dogs barking, no children playing in the streets, no scooters buzzing around. The air is still and dark like a storm coming in. The only sound you hear is the breeze in the trees. Tamra and Helen are reading and trying to nap. There is a peace that everyone takes in. As the clock gets close to 6 pm I can hear a bit activity. A child calling for mama, a dog barking, someone sweeping... slowly all the noise comes back and the people begin to open for business. I hear a scooter going down the street and a distant sound of thunder. Siesta time... Yorgos says it's the custom everywhere to cope with the heat. Many people don't have air conditioning, people have a late snack and prepare for the evening. The retaurants are full of locals sitting and enjoying a drink or coffee.

Yorgos meets us about 7:30 to fill us in on our rest day tomorrow. Even though we are suppose to be resting from riding he has several places for us to see. Tonight we walk around the town square and he tells us the tragic story of this town. During WWII the mountains around Kalavrita where a stronghold for the resistance. The Germans took the region and wanted to teach the people a lesson so in Kalavrita on Dec. 13, 1943 they gathered up all the males over age 13, and led them out of town to a ravine and shot them all. They then gathered all the women and children locked them into school and set it on fire. They where able to break the windows and doors and many escaped. The Germans let them go without shooting at those escaping. We visited the memorial this evening.

Very somber, the sculpture below the memorial picture is of a grieving woman. Such horror. One of the inscriptions is a prayer for an end to war.

Kalavrita Place of Sacrifice Memorial

This is a beautiful area. Friday morning is cool and foggy so we all decide to go visit the caves in the area and a beautiful grove of trees called Planno trees (spelling?). We lunch on another wonderful Greek salad... we all love the fetta cheese and olive oil now. After our strength training via Helen.. Helen has always been so fit and into training. I finally give in and join the group.. we're all growning but very ready for lunch. Now Tamra and I head off for our mini bike ride to the local monastary. of Agia Lavra tucked away in the hills. This little chapel is where the Greek revolution against the Ottoman Empire was launched in 1821.

Monastary at Agia Lavra

Grotto shrine at Monastary of Agia Lavra

Tamra and Helen both want me to say hello to all. We are all having a wonderful time. Ah soo. (by by) The town is full of activity right now.. about 9 pm. Helen is enjoying a note from Bill and Tamra is off exploring the gypsey bazaar in the streets.. she's found some plastic bowls etc. for our now daily shopping for bread and greek salad and baklava feasts!! I'm going off to find that local gelatto shop.

POPO (wow in Greek)

Super Hero's at the Citadel of Corinth (I think)

Lions Gate at Agamemnoms Fortress

Tuesday and Wednesday:

Streets of Nafplion

We started our history lesson today. In Greece that means eons.. We headed off yesterday from Napfoli. On our road today we planned to go to Agamemnon's fortress and tomb. The road was difficult to say the least but the weather was pleasant, cool and a bit overcast. We had miles of country roads with acres of olive trees, grapes and figs. Every once in a while we'd stop and snack on the delicious grapes. We finally arrived to the archeologic site after a 7 mi. climb up.

Yorgos met us at the site and we started the climb up to the huge fortress. You'll have to look up the story of Agamemnon and the Atretes family... famous for the Helen of Troy story. The movie 300 now has new meaning. Yorgos tells us the story of the cursed family as we wander around the huge grounds of the fortress. The view and the ancient structure just takes your breath away. This was in 1400 BC!!! They have unbelievable achetecture and structures.

Agamemnoms Tomb and fortress

We take many pictures as Yorgos tells us the story of the Greeks from this period, the Bronze age 1400 BC to the classical age... the Acropolis perieod which was about 400 BC. Amazing. The history is unbelievable. Corrie was right... everywhere you go there are ruins. Excavating, marble, huge sites from one period to the next... the romans are known for their public works... the baths, the aquaducts, the roads, the Greeks for their temples one age built on anothers ruins. We finish our tour of the fortress by getting a picture under the lion's gate... as we where getting the picture the little daughter of the lady taking our picture asks us: "Are you super hero's?" I guess it was our biking clothes... we all just chuckled.. We felt a bit like super hero's after climbing up the mountain!

Mycenae: Temple of Zeus

From this site we went to the site at Mycenae.. even earlier then the bronze age I think... this site has a stadium for athletic games and a temple of Zeous. We had a wonderful picnic lunch here.. fresh tomatoes, olives, salami, cheese and fresh peaches... all from the local road side stands. We had a short ride from this site through acres and acres of grapes...all kinds of grapes. This is harvest time so there where many workers picking and grapes lying out under tarps to concentrate the sweetness we're guessing. We arrived exhausted in Ancient Corinth. About 6 miles from our hotel Yorgos hit an obstacle... seems they put in a high speed rail system that cut off this side of town from the other!! He was... temporarily flustered!! I was done in.. trailing around the gypsey village in Corinth over roads that ended in ditches etc. but not Helen and Tamara!! They're ready and excited about everything!! So I climbed in the van... and they followed for the next 6 mi. Yorgos finally says... "now I know where I am.. as we turned the last corner to "Mama Elizabeths". Finally... I nap!!

Mama Elizabeth's

Wednesday

We slept like babies last night... seems my room mate buddies didn't even snore last night. They has a symphony going the night before.. of course I never snore.. check out my hubby on that one.

Helen Tamra and I head down the street for a coffee and pastry. The morning is full of comings and going.. we see little old ladies in black with their little bags, farmers driving a rototiller turned into a cart... Tamra keeps taking pictures of these... getting all excited and saying "Rori has got to build me one of these!!!" So Rori.. start looking around for the oldest rotiller you can find!! We find an open air bakery.. pick out our patries and watch the world go by... we see everyone buzzing around on scooters.. our jaws drop as a woman with three children on their way to school!!! on the scooter.. hanging on for dear life.. no helmets or seat belts here!! After our morning coffee we head back to our hotel for... another breakfast.. cheese, coffee cake, melon, hard boiled eggs.

Acropolis of Corinth

The View from Citadel of Corinth

Tamra and I suit up for the morning climb.. up to the Citadel of Corinth. Helen, anticipating her knee not liking the climb stays in the van. It's only about 4 mi. up but is it ever up!!! The fortress is on the highest peak in the area and overlooks both the Agean and Ionic (not sure?) sea. Unbelievable. We make the trek panting and stopping every K or so!! I end up pushing the bike and swearing I've got to lose 20 lbs.!!! We make it to the base of the fortress. From here we hike up and explore the fortress... Yorgos now fills in the Greek history of the Byzinthian era.. war after was, but this citadel is the strategic hold for any conquerer... they all plan a canal, including that bad boy Nero.. emperor of Rome.. yeah the guy who let Rome burn. When we reach the summit you can see the strategic advantage they would have here.

Citadel of Corinth

After our climb we all start on our next ride to Xelocastro.. a very easy ride along the coast. No climbing at all. As we're rolling along at our leisurly pace we come upon some tourists!! Where are you from, I ask? France! Mom and dad with a 14 mo.old and 4 yr. old little boy in a trailer. They've been traveling around Europe for 6 mo. camping!!! Mom is a pediatritian and dad is an EMT... they speak excellent English and tell us all about the perils of camping and carting little ones around Europe!! We exchange blog sites ( I left the address in my bike.. I'll be back later and add it) and invite us to come to Lyon... they'll show us all the great biking spots! Tamra and Helen and I start planning!! check out the site: warmshowers.com. We're having so much fun.. all we can say is PoPo (Greek for Wow!!) Please post any comments, I love them.

French family touring by bike

We're not in Kansas anymore

The Acropolis

Athens Streets at 7 am

Friday

I was awake at my usual 5:30 am and I could smell the bread baking. Tamara was awake reading so without waking Helen we both tip toed out for an early run. We waited until it was light of course and headed toward the Acropolis, which is a landmark for the city. It was quiet and abandoned. We started up, up, up the little bungalows are stacked one on top of another, little open shops with leather, jewelry, bakerys, stamps etc. just beginning to open. The balconys and patios have every inch covered with flowers or colorful pots. Up, Up winding, intersected, very narrow streets with cars parked on the curbs everywhere... how in the world do they manage these streets!

Ruins are everywhere in Athens

A small group of doggies join us, very friendly group as if to say.. what fun, running humans, lets play.. Up, Up Up.. at some point we deciede it's probably a good idea to start down.. we do have our hostels address and I've found that Tamara has a remarkable sense of direction.. I stop to buy a few pastries and before you know it there's our metro stop and after a few directions from a friendly hotel manager we make it back!!!

Pete (Yorgos's brother) Tamra, Helen, Me and Yorgos

Yourgous... our guide extrodinare meets us at 10 am with our guide for the morning. Nikos takes us off to a walk from our hotel to the Acropolis... we climb the stairs that have been there since antiquity.. nothing compares to seeing this grandeur. To imagine this group of people created this... beauty beyond description and all at the very top of the hill. We are surrounded by thousands from all over the world. Democracy began here.. and almost everything else if you talk to the Greeks.
Me, Helen and Tamra at the Acropolis
The stage at the Acropolis

Later, after a nap and lunch.. Yougous has planned a traditional Greek dinner at one of his favorite local restaurants.. we have to wait till at least 8 or 8:30 to hear the music as well... so we begin our feast.. Yourgous picks out about 6 different dishes.. meatballs.. made with cinnamon and cloves.. okra.. baked... rice, a baked mix of potatoes, eggplant and tomatoe with of course olive oit... it is all WONDERFUL.. we talk and sip wine, listen to the bouzouki... and guitar ( did I tell you I'm the designated drinker.. whatever Yorgous has I say.. I want one of those) Ok so I want to trade in my irish heritage to Greek now..

The Streets of Poros

Outside our hotel in Poros

Saturday

We wake to a torential downpour!!! Yougous loves it.. he says the sky is "letting off steam" he has a greek word for it.. we ride a ferry to Poros.. small island resort community.. today we get our bikes. Helen get a greek bike, Tamara a bran new Cannondale and I get a little Italian bike..

My little Scapin

the 48" size was a real problem for him to find, but with lots of tweaking of seats, handlebars etc. we proclaim them ok.. and off for our first ride.. your right Greece has hills!! but when your looking at the Mediterarean coast who cares. We pass the Greek Navy doing drills and they throw us kisses.. women on bikes. Up and down we go.. everything is very quiet right now.. crowds are small.. mostly just greeks with wedding parties, christenings all celebrating in the tavernas and of course music everywhere. We did about 20 miles.. not sure in KM but we went for about 2 hrs. We are all very similar in our riding speed so it makes us all stay pretty close.

Sunday.

Breakfast before our ride

I wake for a sunrise run.. Helen and Tamara are sleeping sound and we don't have to get going for a few hours. I'm doing this run for Camille... sunrise on the coast of Greece. No words to describe it in English.. the greeks say Oraomera... not sure of course the spelling... Yorgous says think of orea plus mers (day)... beautiful morning.. We get on the bikes Yorgous gets the van ready and we're off to get on the ferry.. probably only 5 min. away... well, is it possible for 3 women to mess this up.. YES... Yorgous is on one ferry and we just realized we're at the wrong one, we figure it out and rush to catch the right ferry... only to see the gangplank with Yorgous in the van gesturing to the ferry workers STOP, stop, so we all laugh and get a quick phone call to him on his cell... thank goodness the ride is only a 10 min. ride to the shore about 1/2 a mile away... well, we are the only 3 on this tour so.. no problem really.

Waiting for the ferry we missed!!

Off we start.. we quickly start our climb on the coastal road. Up and down we go..... Yorgous promises us this is our toughest day we several tough grinds.. I felt like I was doing MacIntosh Grade, but this sweet little bike with it's compact chain rings is sweet... no problem... We stop in for our first break in a small village..

Epidauros

Our ride today finished with Epidauros.. an ancient Greek site of the first theatre. It could seat 13,000 it was incredible. It also has the first recorded healing site. Epidaros was the first physician of sorts.. records of treatments for all sorts of conditions, they called it a hospice...amazing for us nurses.

Tamra Picking Figs

Today... Monday was our easy day.. only 30K, we wind around orchards and vineyards.. Tamara stops every so often to pick figs! They're in season now.. and they're WONDERFUL.. then she finds grapes.. her own personal farmers market.. Yourgous says its perfectly acceptable to pick a few handfulls of fruit along the way. Our first stop today is at a marble quarry.. Yourgous gives us a tour.. he knows everyone it seems.. from all the tours he's led through here. We see the hills that they have retreved the marble, wash and polish it, cut it and the colors!!! Pink, pure white, black and a gorgeous veined amber color.. amazing. We go out to the back and are invited to pick out samples from the through away piles... It's beginning to get warm now, we only have about 10 K to go to our lunch and swimming beach. The beach is in a small cove that locals frequent but it is mostly deserted today. There are sailboats and fishing boats in the harbour. There are tavernas and little tables and benches along the beach. It doesn't take us but a minute to get out of our shorts... suits underneath and into the water we go. Clear as can be.. we see little shells and fishes.. salty of course.. no waves or surf to speak of. We swim and play as long as we want.. we are in no hurry to get anywhere.. this is the ultimate vacation.

Tenderizing an Octopus

Now for lunch.. well after we watch a local fisherman pound the *&%# out of an OCTUPUS!! yes you heard me right... it is his hobby to fish for these off a little island... he was happy to tell us all about it.. I have him on video. He was beating it on the rocks to tenderize it.. so his wife could cook it... she will cook it with tomatoe sauce and of course olive oil he likes it in spagetti. For lunch we get a mixed grill... calamari (squid) deep fried in...of course olive oil, greek salad, yummy yogurt ( mix of cucumber, garlic and olive oil) fried cheese, huge fried shrimp, octupus.. really yummy!!! lemon juice on everything.. and bread. I can't begin to tell you all that we've been experiencing. We are not in Kansas anymore.

Mixed grill : Shrimp, octopus, squid, ziziki, meatballs, lots of other stuff!