April Morning Bike Ride

Santorini

Seaside Taverna

Cove for swimming off the Schooner to Oia

Sunset at Oia

Santorini views

Santorini

Helen insited we take one last week and visit Santorini. The Greek Islands offer another view of this landscape that we needed to see. The minute we landed in Santorini it had a different feel. It was warmer, much more barren, and MORE people and the ugly side of Greece-the garbage along the roads. There is no government program that controls or seems to pick up the litter and it is everywhere here. Helen says 5 years ago the tourists where minimal but now the entire island seems teaming with people vacationing. We see lots of young people touring and many who seem to be honey-mooners.

This island is a favorite for the cruise ships as well. Thousands of people seem to be making their way up the steep cliffs to the white washed towns on the top. The streets are still the terraced colorful cottages we've seen but they're almost all small shops full of beautiful jewelry and trendy resort wear. Tavernas and up scale restaurants all with a terrace and a view, and two times the price for lunch.

Yesterday we took a schooner that toured three different ports. Our trip took us to the active volcano in the region. This region was originally a larger island that was devastated by the largest eruption in recorded history. The date is in the mid 2nd. century BC and has been speculated to have been the basis for the myth of Atlantis. The island where the volcano is truely different than anything we've seen so far. It has the rugged geography but it is of barren volcanic rock. We had to hike up about 3 miles to the top and where we could see the smoking caldera. The guide was great and she could tell her story is 4 languages. After our hike we sailed to another island in the ring. We where invited to dive off the ship and swim as we wanted. This had me feeling like I'd escaped from a pirate ship and discovered a secret cove and rocks for swimming. Wonderful way to spend and afternoon. Our last stop was to the town of Oia on the tip of Santorini cliffs. This is a famous spot for photographers and visiters. We watched the sun set and it was glorious. Tamra promised me she got some wonderful shots.

We have one more day in Athens and then we have another odyssey back home. We've had a wonderful month. Greece will always be fondly remembered and our bike trip with Yorgos was definatly memorable. Our sisterhood of the traveling bicycles is over. We'll be home and back to our normal busy lives again. We're all looking forward to hugs and showing off pictures and our Greek cooking skills. Ya Sas...

Not a single flat in our 850K!!

Yorgos's Family at our family dinner

No McDonald's in Greece, I wonder why?

Friday Oct. 2

We finished our tour today. We managed one last swim at Kalavrita, so we swam and swam. I think Helen said her and Tamara did about a mile. The place Yorgos had us stay in last night was really the very top of the line. We overlooked a beautiful bay and the rooms where outstanding. Very modern and high end. Our ride to the bay was about like our others over quiet country roads, with lots of ups and downs.

The bikes where packed up, our equipment on the bikes removed and we gave out bikes a last pat as Yorgos packed them in the van. We all felt a sence of completion and when we finally tallied our milage we where amazed that we did 850 K around about. We managed to fit the countryside of the Peloponnese, the culture, the food, the people and 850K of biking in three short weeks. What an experience it has been.

We had a last dinner together and this gave us time to let our friends know how much we appreciated all their work and professional excellence in putting together a tour none of us will ever forget. Yorgos wanted to know what we liked and what problems or changes we would suggest. We could go on and on about all the things we liked.. . the detailed day sheet and markings that never led us wrong, the fact that Panayotis was a great sweep and helped keep us together on the long miles, the breakfasts, the picnics, the wonderful dinners Yorgos found for us and of course HIS COOKING!!! and we'll never forget the wonderful family dinner we where allowed to share in at his mothers. The bikes all ran well after numerous tweeks by Yorgos, the places where all wonderfully different and we just couldn't come up with much to critisize. The hills seemed endless but we are pretty tough now and the roads at times where pretty narrow and crazy, but we really wouldn't change a thing. Was 21 days too long... not at all, we never tired of the discoveries we had each day. We learned that there is so much to this wonderful country. We had a nice mix of tough days and easy days, swimming, shopping and beaches. The tour was very diverse and always educational and fun.

We've all learned something on this tour... and hope to change our lives a bit. We've had a glimpse of a slower way to live. The beauty of this land encourages people to take a bit of time to savour their surroundings, enjoy the wonderful climate, the exceptional bounty of foods grown and cooked here, and take time to enjoy life a bit more. We found the fact that there are no McDonalds in Greece to be curious at first, but now we know why. Why would you want to go into a restaurant that offers exactly the same food every day, quickly yes, but without care or taste that is in abundance in Greece. And the most obvious thing would be, by the time you chew down the burger and coke... you're friends at the next taverna haven't even begun to start on their evening Meze and friendly talk.

We will always remember this place fondly, we'll try and pour olive oil in all our cooking now and I plan to make some mousaka. We'll be home soon. I will try and make one more post for Santorini. So stay tuned.

Monemvasia is amazing

Monemvasia, Greece

Today we have to say good-by to Gytheio. This spot has been special. The view of the water is amazing and it is such a sleepy little waterfront town now without all the tourists. The staff at the hotel we're staying in have been especially friendly. So, if you happen to be in Gytheio, be sure and check out the Gytheion Hotel.. absolutely tops! And, they are right above a SUPER ice cream/internet cafe shop. Tamara and I had a run this morning and we swam too... so little time, so many fun things to do.

Our ride this morning will be one of our longest. We will be crossing the entire peninsula and going to the village of Arhaggelos. We have about 60 K, but Yorgos says it will be relatively flat.. yeah, right. We start off and travel through miles and miles of orchards again. This time oranges and of course figs, olives, tomatoes etc. The road is more of the same... up to beautiful views, down to little villages etc, etc.

The real highlight of this day was our evening in Monemvasia. this amazing place is a small mountain of rock that was seperated from the mainland by and earthquake in 375 AD. It was founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century and shortly after it became an important port. It has a causeway that links it to the mainland. It has many ruins of the original 800 houses and four of the original 40 churches. High above, castle walls protect the upper town on the summit. There is a fortified zigzag path from the upper town leading to the summit overlooking the town. We could have wandered through these ruins for hours. They have many shops and restaraunts to explore too, but the ancient buildings where amazing, especially at sunset. This was truely one of the highlights of our trip, and I would encourage anyone to make this a must see in Greece. I'll try and put a link up in a few days.

Fueled by Figs

The hill climbs are worth it, when you see sights like this

We walk to our grotto lunch spot

A Church on the road to our beach grotto

Tamra enjoying Greek coffee before our morning ride


I've been getting a few runs in

Our rides begin with a few quiet minutes, sipping coffee and just enjoying the beauty or the quiet. Yorgos has done a wonderful job finding wondrful accomadations. We mostly have two rooms and a balcony and usually a very small bathroom and often the rooms have a small kitchenette. We've enjoyed Greek coffee which is milder then expresso but still strong. It is heated with water and sugar in a small pot called a just until boiling and served in a small cup. The coffee is very popular and served everywhere at all times of day or night.

For breakfast we usually have yogurt and honey with fruit, a boiled egg, toast and nuts.

We get ourselves ready for our daily ride and discuss our ride with Yorgos and his brother Panoyotis, who has been riding with us most of the way. Pano, is a cyclist but he hasn't gone on many of his brothers rides and he's helping and keeping us all in line.

Tuesday 9/29

Today we'll have another challenging ride as we head for to the inner Mani, one of Europes wildest and most isolated regions. This area is mostly barren mountains with small olive trees and prickly pear cacti. It use to be denley populated area nd almost every hillside was cultivated. We can seen thousands of acres of stone fences and the hillsides are dotted with stone tower houses. The people choose these houses because they where easy to defend and very sturdy, as we can see because they are still around. Warfare seems to have been a constant for the Greek people. The area is doted with midevil churches and tiny chapels.

We rode up hills and down, not a car or a goat in sight. Until we see signs to the beach that Yorgos promises us. This beach is tucked away in an isolated cove, no sand but small round pebbles surround the waters edge. The cove is tucked into a hillside and we see a deep grotto that is shady and would make a perfect spot for our lunch. We have saved figs from the trees on our ride and we have tomatoes, olives and bread, we are set for a wonderful lunch. But first a swim... Helen swims with abandon out as far as she dares, Tamra and I both love to swim but the gentle cove also has more of the feel of an ocean too... so we stay closer to shore and enjoy the veiw of the rocks and fishes with our goggles. No need for snorkling equipment here if you bring your trusty swim goggles from home. We sun and snooze for a bit after lunch.

We do have the issue of the ride to our next destination... and of course it involves more hills. I have decided to change my ultimate challenge hill... no longer is MacIntosh Grade the toughest.. now it is Greek hills.

We visit the Diros Caves

One of our beaches today

Diros caves

Gytheio

The wind continues today and we all could use a rest day, so today we decided to check out the Diros caves in the area. They where discovered in 1955 by a dog that crawled through a hole into the caves and returned several days later coated in red clay. His owner followed him the following day and found a vast network of caves, of which some 5 miles have now been explored. The Pirgos Dirou Caves are one of the oldest inhabited spots in Greece. and pottery, bone tools, and even prehistoric garbage have been found here. We rode in a boat through the caves. It reminded me of a science fiction movie or Lord of the Rings worlds. Amazing.

The rest of the day we had time to explore the town of Gytheio. Tomorrow we ride to the southern most tip of Europe and Greece. This is called the Inner Mani .

We rest and enjoy a dinner on the waterfront

Chasing Italians!

Mani Coast
So, it seems today is Saturday, day 16. Of course we had to start the day with another swim.. everyone would be so disappointed if we didn't. Lovely, but, we can see the clouds turning gray and threatening. After our breakfast Yorgos, who's riding with us today tells us today will be our most challenging climb. We're only going 35 k but it's straight up and straight down. We'll climb another 477 meters but the nice little challenge we have to day is.. horrendous swirling wind and a possiblity of rain. So we'll play it by ear.

Who's this up ahead? A group of cyclists on mountain bikes and full paniers. We find out there are 10 of them, ladies and gents, very friendly, bon journo, bon jorno! (whatever) and we seem to keep catching them all morning. There going about 100K a day, and are touring as a group for 10 days. The wind is tough for all of us but they will really have a time of it with 70K more then us. Yorgos says the wind should be coming and going as we go up the switchbacks and the road is quite good and not much traffic. So we start and it is gruelling with the wind, but it does come and go some. The rain starts as expected and we decide to wait it out in a SMOKE FREE!!! Taverna.. it is pouring too.. but stops in about a half hour and we only have 10K to go.

The rain stops and the wind dyes some. We have the last of this "monster" climb, Yorgos states ahead, but we continue.. Tamra chases and finds the Italians at our destination village.. Thank God!!! Today we stop at Areapoli.